Friday, March 25, 2016

Campbell Soup Company: Lessons About Copyright And Art







































That was then ... it's very hard to understand fashion designers policy regarding copyrighted material being loosely woven into a work of art. Louis Vuitton sued, twice, a Danish art student, Nadia Plesner, for using an image (not even an LV) to raise money for Darfur orphans. A stylistic take-off on the ubiquitous image of Paris Hilton holding a designer bag in one hand while cuddling a tiny yipping dog in the other.

Curiously Louis Vuitton itself was sued for fraud for selling Murakami framed works of art which were discovered to simply be the material used for  its bags during the collision of art and commerce at the Murakami exhibit at MOCA in Los Angeles.

Louis Vuitton is supporting young artists again through its Louis Vuitton Young Arts Project.

Lessons that should have been learned from Campbell Soup.


Tuesday, March 15, 2016

Legeron: Haute Couture Flowers & Feathers





Prior to WWII, there were as many small houses in Paris serving the Haute Couture as there were crafts. There could have been several hundred small ateliers crafting hand-made flowers and feather confections and now there is Legeron, a house created in 1880. Legeron continues in the same painfully tedious, exquisitely fine manner as at its beginnings. The slow process of pinning fabric gently to a wooden frame before its bath into gum, starch or flours, the fabric is then placed on a cushion before being punched and formed on implements that may be over 100 years old, the petals then cut by hand and bathed in aniline dyes and alcohol at 90 degrees; when the alcohol has evaporated, shades of dye are placed on the edges. The petals are left to dry on a rack overnight, a process that is slow and produces the colors of fantasy and nature in a world of time equals money. 

The "tiny hands" then soften the petals on a damp blotter, ancient tools to crimp and create twirls and ruffles are used along with heat and sometimes wax to hold the delicate fine shapes. Each petal is glued to a brass base one by one, the emergent flower is then again allowed to dry for several more hours and only then is the brass stem covered in silk and the flower is complete. Heirloom flowers carefully produced one by one that cost the earth but last forever. The amazing craft remains for now.

Legeron Paris link here


Friday, March 11, 2016

Jil Sander, Romeo Gigli, Roland Mouret, John Galliano and more









I don't know what happened to Romeo Gigli. Rumors and cancellations. His partnership with Carla Sozzani, his business partner, shredded.

Jil Sander minimal, a dark sensuality, seductive fabrics.  Purchased under the Prada umbrella, Ms. Sander left.

Roland Mouret created a dress that sold for more on eBay than in shops. Lost to business partners, unable to use his name.

What happened to Herve Leger could be a fashion school lesson, enacting new laws to protect designers from predatory entanglements still hasn't happened.

John Galliano. His sad story is so well known. His own name lost.

It's only in fashion that this level of abuse exists, perhaps predatory music labels as well.


From the top: Roland Mouret, Jil Sander, John Galliano, Romeo Gigli, Herve Leger.

Saturday, March 5, 2016

Tuesday, March 1, 2016

It Was A Very Good Year, It Really Was




This was Franca Sozzana's first Italian Vogue in 1988.  Darkly romantic, beautiful, unexpected. Dolce & Gabbana's Sicilian Merry Widow, the classic but slightly off white shirts and black pants ... so gorgeous and simply not possible to stick in a box marked Back Then.

It was a very good year. 

Happy Anniversary, Franca. Brava.


You can link here for access to Italian Vogue's 1965 issue, its first, and Franca's first issue in 1988.






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