Sunday, February 14, 2010

Yohji Yamamoto Y3 Fall '10

Yohji does large collections, always. Black, navy, grey, stripes ... mixed with a handful of plaids leggings and tights in hot pinks, peach, yellow ... of course the dark colors. Just easy sportswear, layered and many pieces blur work out wear with fashion. Lovely, thick, soft mufflers and tailored coats that somehow drape. The curious thing about today is that I'm not in New York (or Paris); well, of course I want to  be there, snow, cold and wind are fine. Fashion does require discipline and a good nature, even with an icy nose and fingers that are too cold to separate dollar bills. There are so many places on the 'net to look at entire collections, unedited; other places to look at the runway show on video. Running through the images, and quick "fashion buyer" edits; just as if I were picking through for a shop. There'll be changes in the way fashion is presented as windows are opened via the 'net and that will not go away. As Suzy Menkes said, you can't go back now. Well, I can't change too much; the "collection" of any designer is more than a shop, even a great big shop, can or should carry. Not so long ago, the designers collectively were quite afraid that copies would be shipped before they could. Out of fear, most houses discouraged most buyers to not take photos and expected orders to be written in the showroom. A hard way to balance a shop, a hard way to budget well. Slowly, slowly polaroids were allowed and a few designers passed out rough sketches with colors available; it was better than nothing but really not much more. Trunk shows and look books and the copies were delivered many times before designer collections. And really no one cared. Everyone was happy. Here we are today when almost all designers have opened websites, provide streaming video of the catwalk show and are considering how to reach the retail buyer in a more intimate (and profitable) manner. Yohji made me think of all this as he struggled with bankruptcy, along with Christian LaCroix - and one wonders how that can possibly be allowed. And yet with all that heaviness, he calmly dealt with it, not easy, never easy, and produced his collections. Maybe he slips into an alley for an occasional cigarette. Maybe ...

The top picture - the striped top and the black obi sash - I want every part of it. Sigh.


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